Use these instructions on how to bleed brakes if you just changed a brake caliper, wheel cylinder, brake hose or hard brake line. Brake bleeding is also necessary if there is air in the fluid from overheated brakes or from the fluid level running too low. The purpose of this procedure is to replace any air trapped in the lines or hoses with brake fluid. Any air in the brake system will cause spongy brakes.

If you are flushing out all of the old brake fluid, these how to bleed brakes instructions will work for all non-ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) cars and many older cars with early ABS systems. Newer ABS systems have secondary fluid reservoirs built into them which won’t be bled out during a normal bleeding procedure. These systems need a dealer service tool to cycle the ABS pump which will circulate the secondary fluid with the primary fluid. You can bleed the brakes on an ABS equipped car, but without the expensive service tool, you will only flush out the fluid in the main brake lines.

This how to bleed brakes procedure uses minimal amount of tools and supplies but requires two people. One person will be in the driver’s seat pushing and releasing the brake pedal and the other will be opening and closing the bleeder screw on each caliper or wheel cylinder.

Make sure you have the proper tools and supplies required for this repair. Allow enough time to get the job completed, about 15 to 30 minutes for all four brakes.

Its a good idea to read through all the how to bleed brakes instructions before starting. Print this page and keep it with you while you’re working.




Before doing any brake repairs, read this: In no event shall diy-brake-repair.com be liable for any consequential, incidental or direct damages incurred in the course of using the information in these articles. Please take your vehicle to a professional mechanic for any repair that is beyond your technical abilities.

The most important thing to remember during this process is to never release the brake pedal until the bleeder screw is closed. If the brake pedal is released when the bleeder screw is open, air can get sucked back into the system.

The engine is not running for this procedure.

Brake Bleeding Sequence

1. Fill up master cylinder with new fluid. These instructions assume that the vehicle has been jacked up with the wheel(s) removed.

The old fluid in the reservoir can be removed if desired. (with a turkey baster, etc...) This will ensure you are filling the system with new fluid as much as possible. This is definitely recommended if you are doing a complete brake fluid flush.

Make sure the master cylinder fluid level is filled up to the MAX mark before going to the next step.

3. Place wrench over bleeder screw. Place a closed end wrench over the bleeder screw. Make sure the wrench has room to swing back and forth to open and close the screw.

Place the other end of the hose in a container.

Here’s where communication with your helper is important. You each need to let the other know what you are doing. Using words like "push down on the pedal", "holding", "let off the pedal" and "push again".

Close the screw (not too tight) just before or when the pedal reaches the floor.

If the pedal reaches the floor, have your assistant hold the pedal down until you tighten the screw. When the screw is closed, tell your assistant to "let the pedal up".

Bleed two more times after the last bubble appears. It’s a good idea to bleed each wheel at least five times.

Use a torque wrench if you're concerned about over tightening the screw, around 5 - 6 ft/lbs is typical.

Remove the hose and wrench from the bleeder screw.

Replace the dust cap if present.

Do not let the fluid level get below the MIN mark while bleeding brakes; you could pump air into the system if the fluid level gets too low.

When all the wheels are bled, you're done.